Kenya Blog 8

Tuesday 31^st July

Justine had taken time out from work yesterday but today he had to report for duty. He is a chemistry teacher and a Christian working in Mumias Muslim Boys School. He was due to drive us back to Kisumu in the afternoon, but he had learned that one of his best friends had died. The friend was a police motorcyclist who was killed on the road. This was a timely reminder as we set off on 31km of rough track in torrential rain. It was almost dark at 3:30 in the afternoon.

Donald, the SAIPEH full-time programme coordinator, had earlier joined us for the morning. He took us to meet Mariam Salim, the leader of the SAIPEH Guardian Enterprise CBO. Widowed in 1997 she was diagnosed HIV+ at the age of 22. Now 39 with 6 children, two from her late husband’s other marriage, she was the first in the district to disclose her situation publicly. This attracted much attention and she was considered an outcast in the community. In the early 1990’s such ill health was thought to be witchcraft, especially since Mariam had not produced sons. I was able to interview this impressive lady at length. She had such a positive outlook, it was difficult to realise her plight. Her beaming smile with beautiful white teeth was constantly noticeable until she held back the tears when reflecting on the loss of her husband. She is now a much regarded virtual celebrity and inspiration to other widows and those who are HIV+; a remarkable lady.

From there we made visits to the home of Rosemary and Winifred. They are two of 79 guardians to date. Each guardian, not necessarily HIV+, looks after the rest of their family. They have set up a cooperative scheme with dairy cows, goats and chickens. This project is another project of SAIPEH.

To complete the morning we visited the local SAIPEH clinic. This was a large shed comprising a reception (Emily at a desk), pharmacy (Freda behind a counter) and the doctor’s consultation room (small desk and couch).

During the traveling between each venue I used the time to talk to Donald to learn more about education, health and history in Kenya.

Arriving at Kisumu airport, we were forced to wait under the wooden gazebo that is the East African Airways departure lounge. There, we suffered the usual dreadful TV with awful programmes and signal. Why do Kenyans feel the need to watch such stuff? At least the rain was so loud in the corrugated roof, it drowned the rap singing most of the time. Our flight was delayed. So much for a free night and a chance to chill out. At least Fred managed to wheedle us into the VIP lounge such as it was.

Kenya Blog 7

Monday 30^th July 2007

I cannot ever remember setting the alarm for 4:00am, but we were required to be at the airport two hours before the flight to Kisumu, and the take off was at 07:45. If we left the hotel by 5 o’clock we would miss the morning rush hour. This would be better termed morning road chaos. It’s every driver for themselves. In a country that clearly considers itself Christian, it is strange how common courtesy towards other road users goes right off the tarmac.

The hotel provided us with a light breakfast at 04:30, for which we were most grateful. All was well, so I phoned Fred to let him know we were ready to be picked up. It was 5:02am. However, when Mike (our spanner man) inspected our hire vehicle, a RAV4, he found a tyre to be punctured. The spare turned out to be punctured also. Why was I not surprised? This is Kenya!

Time was now of the essence. Fred woke Charcoal Man. He had been our taxi driver around Nairobi in previous years. He was formerly making a living by selling charcoal. He now owns two taxis. By 05:40 we were on our way, only to hit the traffic funneling into the city for the start of another day’s work. A quick rethink had us on a short cut on various tracks and minor roads. We found ourselves on the outer ring road minutes later. After several outrageous, unlawful maneuvers (needs must), Charcoal Man brought us safely to the airport. As it happened we were in good time.

In a café at the departure lounge, Fred met up with Ruth Oniag’o, MP for Mumias, where we were going. (Fred is always meeting people. It helps with networking). Ruth was also the former Shadow Secretary for Education. She took our business cards and promised to be in touch by email. She has set up a successful project in the Mumias area that donates dairy cows to guardians of orphan or neglected children. This secures a reasonable future for them. SAIPEH (Student Aids Prevention, Education and Health), the group we are linked with in Kenya’s Western Province, also have a similar project. When NGO’s and CBO’s combine effos the difference is much greater than being in competition.

A flight of a mere 27 minutes saw us in Ksumu; better than the eight hour drive. We met Justin Motobera, director of SAIPEH and drove on to Mumias. We cruised along on slightly better roads than around Nairobi. Here the scenery is green with maize and sugar cane dominating. Mumias sugar cane processing plant is the only large employer in this area. Most of the workers come from outside Mumias, so send their money home. Mumias remains poor, with the farmers being some of the poorest. 95% of the population is unemployed.

Our official task was to open the newly built, SCI sponsored, Youth Training and Resource Centre. The building, resembling a small cowshed, has walls made from clay fired bricks made from the soil that the plot of land it stands on.. The roof is galvanized iron. Members of the community helped with the unskilled labour in exchange for a good meal. Casual labour is how most survive here. This would be their only food for the day.

The training school will have enough room for five students to learn textiles and five, carpentry. We had soda and cakes as we listened and gave speeches of thanks and encouragement. The SAIPH theatre group sang to us.

After a lunch of chicken and chips for less than a pound at the local restaurant, we went to Labinu Primary School. Lubinu FC (HayleFC) played Buhuru FC (Porthleven FC). The players support the community by planting trees, providing shade and firewood for the future. Towards the end of the match, a very tired Matt, after some persuasion, gave a cameo performance for Buhuru at centre midfield.

We spent the night at Justin’s home. A meal of ugali, rice, chicken, beef stew and chapatti was followed, at last, by a little relaxation; time to write my blog. With lghts out by 10 o’clock, we slept for nine hours. A cold shower heralded a new day.