Kenya Blog 8

Tuesday 31^st July

Justine had taken time out from work yesterday but today he had to report for duty. He is a chemistry teacher and a Christian working in Mumias Muslim Boys School. He was due to drive us back to Kisumu in the afternoon, but he had learned that one of his best friends had died. The friend was a police motorcyclist who was killed on the road. This was a timely reminder as we set off on 31km of rough track in torrential rain. It was almost dark at 3:30 in the afternoon.

Donald, the SAIPEH full-time programme coordinator, had earlier joined us for the morning. He took us to meet Mariam Salim, the leader of the SAIPEH Guardian Enterprise CBO. Widowed in 1997 she was diagnosed HIV+ at the age of 22. Now 39 with 6 children, two from her late husband’s other marriage, she was the first in the district to disclose her situation publicly. This attracted much attention and she was considered an outcast in the community. In the early 1990’s such ill health was thought to be witchcraft, especially since Mariam had not produced sons. I was able to interview this impressive lady at length. She had such a positive outlook, it was difficult to realise her plight. Her beaming smile with beautiful white teeth was constantly noticeable until she held back the tears when reflecting on the loss of her husband. She is now a much regarded virtual celebrity and inspiration to other widows and those who are HIV+; a remarkable lady.

From there we made visits to the home of Rosemary and Winifred. They are two of 79 guardians to date. Each guardian, not necessarily HIV+, looks after the rest of their family. They have set up a cooperative scheme with dairy cows, goats and chickens. This project is another project of SAIPEH.

To complete the morning we visited the local SAIPEH clinic. This was a large shed comprising a reception (Emily at a desk), pharmacy (Freda behind a counter) and the doctor’s consultation room (small desk and couch).

During the traveling between each venue I used the time to talk to Donald to learn more about education, health and history in Kenya.

Arriving at Kisumu airport, we were forced to wait under the wooden gazebo that is the East African Airways departure lounge. There, we suffered the usual dreadful TV with awful programmes and signal. Why do Kenyans feel the need to watch such stuff? At least the rain was so loud in the corrugated roof, it drowned the rap singing most of the time. Our flight was delayed. So much for a free night and a chance to chill out. At least Fred managed to wheedle us into the VIP lounge such as it was.